Silvered Ivory Stringers

Question: I have seen "Silvered Ivory" in beads on-line and in the description of sets on Ebay.  What exactly is that?  I have looked at on-line glass sites and have not found it.

Answer:  Silvered ivory is not something you buy but something you create.  Use "Dark Ivory" glass from Moretti and either silver leaf or silver foil.  The foil works better for the technique but either is just fine.

The technique is to create a stringer that is coated with silver. 

If you are using foil tear a strip from your book about 1/2" wide, the width of the silver.  If you will be using silver leaf you will need 2 strips (I'm using silver leaf in the pictures).  Put the silver on your marver that is flat on the table, not on the torch marver.  I like my aluminum marver because it doesn't seem to have static.  Warm the tip of your dark ivory rod and roll it onto the silver (twice for the leaf).  Then using your poking tool (not in the flame) and gently rub the silver against the glass rod so that it burnishes it to the surface.  Do this quickly so that your rod doesn't get too cool.  Gently reheat your rod with the silver on the end.  The heat will start to burn off the silver and look brown and yucky (technical term), that is what you want.  Continue heating and carefully create a ball of glass with the silver on the outside.  Don't let your ball of glass fold over on itself or it won't work.  Then just pull out your stringer like normal to whatever thickness you want.  (I'm assuming you know how to make a stringer)

I will usually pull a really long stringer so that I only have to do it once for a bead set.  The stringer is very fragile with the silver on it so after it is made break or melt it into short sections (about 12") so that it isn't as fragile and easier to work with.

Use this stringer for any application where you want a thin black line in the middle of the ivory.  The biggest trick to using this is how you melt it after it is applied.  Carefully apply the stringer to your bead in a raised design.  Then after it is completely on the bead begin to heat the entire bead evenly and try to level the stringer over the entire bead simultaneously.  When it all melts together you will have a nice, fine black line.  If you melt it unevenly there will be areas where it fuzzes and the fine line is lost.

Try this first with a straight application of the stringer to the bead.  Then go on to try the swirls.  Straight lines are easier to apply and they melt down more evenly when you get to that stage.

Possible problems and how to fix them

I don't get a pretty, fine black line.  It gets fuzzy.....When you applied the stringer to your bead some of the stringer melted more then it should have at first.  Try to keep the stringer raised.  Then when it is fully applied gently melt the stringer into the bead and you should see a better line.